Josh Thomsen

Forget about the game for a moment:

The Super Bowl, like every great American holiday, is full of its own rituals and traditions, and they’re not to be taken lightly. I have been asked the past week or so “What should I cook?”.  Since I will be cooking at “Taste of the NFL” in Indianapolis the night before the Super Bowl I have collected a some thoughts that will have your guest calling you a winner before the game starts!

FIRST DOWN

Meatball Parmigiano Reggiano Sliders

• 2 slice white or sandwich bread, torn into 1-inch pieces
• 1/2 cup whole milk
• 8 ounce ground beef, 85 percent lean
• 8 ounce ground pork
• 4 ounce ground veal
• 1/2 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese
• 3 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 large egg
• Coarse salt
• marinara sauce
• 24  small brioche rolls, split
• 1 1/2 cup or 5 ounces coarsely grated mozzarella cheese
• 1/2 cup finely grated Parmigino Reggiano cheese, for sliders
• Small basil leaves

Make the meatballs: Soak bread in milk for 5 minutes. Gently mix bread and milk with meats, 1/2 cup Pecorino Romano, parsley, garlic, egg, and 1 teaspoon salt. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Roll mixture into 24 one-ounce balls (each about the size of a golf ball).

Heat sauce in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Drop meatballs into sauce and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook partially covered until meatballs are cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes.

Make the sandwiches: Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Working in batches, arrange rolls, cut side up, on a baking sheet. Place 1 meatball, a spoonful of sauce, 1 tablespoon mozzarella, and 1 teaspoon Parmigino Reggiano cheese on bottom halves. Bake until cheese melts, about 3 minutes. Top with basil and close sandwich.

SECOND DOWN

Braised Pork & Bean Nachos

• 1  1-pound pork tenderloin, trimmed
• 2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, divided
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoon fresh lime juice
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic

Beans

• 1 can chipotle chiles in adobo sauce
• 2 tablespoon h20
• 2 teaspoon fresh lime juice
• 1 teaspoon chili powder
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 cans 15-ounces pinto beans, rinsed and drained
• 4 slice(s) apple wood-smoked bacon, cooked and crumbled

Topping

• 1 1/2 cup chopped plum tomato
• 1 cup diced avocado
• 1/2 cup chopped jicama
• 1/3 cup chopped onion
• 2 tablespoon fresh lime juice
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• Remaining ingredients
• 6 ounce 8 cups sturdy tortilla chips
• 1 1/4 cup 5 ounces shredded Monterey Jack cheese
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 jalapeño pepper, thinly sliced
• Preheat oven to 500 degrees.

For meat, rub pork with 1 tablespoon evo, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and black pepper. Place pork in a shallow roasting pan coated with evo. Bake at 500 degrees for 23 minutes or until a thermometer registers 160 degrees. Remove from pan; cool 10 minutes. Shred pork with two forks to measure 2 cups, place in a small bowl. Stir in remaining 1 tablespoon oil, remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons juice and garlic.

For beans remove 2 chipotle chiles and 1 teaspoon adobo sauce from can, reserve remaining chiles and sauce for another use. Drop chiles through food chute with food processor pulse 3 times or until coarsely chopped. Add adobo sauce, water and next 4 ingredients (through beans); process 5 seconds or until smooth. Stir in bacon.

Preheat broiler.

For topping combine plum tomato and the next 6 ingredients (through 1/4 teaspoon salt) and toss well to coat. Arrange tortilla chips in a single layer on a large rimmed baking sheet. Top evenly with bean mixture then top with meat mixture and sprinkle with cheese. Broil 4 minutes or until cheese melts. Top evenly with topping, cilantro and jalapeño. Serve immediately.

THIRD DOWN

Boneless Buffalo Chicken Tenders

• 3 tablespoon nonfat buttermilk
• 3 tablespoon hot pepper sauce
• 3 tablespoon distilled white vinegar, divided
• 2 pound chicken tenders
• 6 tablespoon whole-wheat flour
• 6 tablespoon cornmeal
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 tablespoon canola oil, divided
• 2 cup peeled carrot sticks
• 2 cup celery sticks

Whisk buttermilk, 2 tablespoons hot pepper sauce and 2 tablespoons vinegar in a large bowl until combined. Add chicken, toss to coat. Transfer to the refrigerator and let marinate for at least 10 minutes or up to 1 hour, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, whisk flour and cornmeal in a shallow dish. Whisk the remaining 1 tablespoon hot sauce and 1 tablespoon vinegar in a small bowl.

Remove the chicken from the marinade and roll in the flour mixture until evenly coated. Discard remaining marinade and flour mixture. Sprinkle both sides of the chicken with cayenne.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add half the chicken placing each in a little oil. Cook until golden brown and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a serving platter. Repeat with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and chicken, reducing the heat if necessary. Transfer to the platter. Drizzle the chicken with the reserved hot sauce mixture. Serve with carrots, celery and your favorite Blue Cheese Dip.

FOURTH DOWN

Manhattan Clam Chowder

(I’m from the NYC)

• 2 bacon slices, cut into 1/2-inch squares
• 1/3 cup chopped onion
• 3 tablespoons diced (1/3 inch) green bell pepper
• 3 tablespoons diced (1/3 inch) celery
• 2/3 cup diced (1/3 inch) peeled boiling potato (1 small)
• 1 (8-oz) bottle clam juice
• 1 cup canned diced tomatoes (8 oz), including juice
• 1 1/2 dozen small hard-shelled clams (1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter; 2 pounds total), scrubbed well
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

I’m helping to judge a cocktail contest in which bad-ass women bartenders make cocktails as fast as they can and then we judge how they actually taste. You are in charge of cheering and drinking.

You should buy a ticket because this involves:

1. Significant numbers of cocktails on a Sunday afternoon with pretty much everyone good in the local bartending community.
2. Empowerment of female bartenders.
3. The money goes toward breast cancer education, prevention and research.

This is 100% win.

The contestants are:

• Victoria Damato-Moran- Belden Taverna
• Rhachel Shaw- Rye
• Brooke Arthur- Wo Hing
• Tina Ross- Rickhouse
• Jennifer Colliau- Slanted Door/Small Hands Foods
• Gabrielle Barnes- Cantina
• Jennifer Embleton- Rye
• Yael Amyra- The New Easy
• Jessica Maria- Hotsy Totsy Club (Albany)
• Claire Sprouse- Rickhouse
• Jill Webster- Lazlo
• Lauren Steele- Rickhouse/Bourbon and Branch
• Melissa Boyd- Beretta
• Lucia Creed Gonzales- Prizefighter (Emeryville)
• Keli Rivers- Hotsy Totsy (Albany)
•  Kim Rosselle Flora/ Dona Tomas
• Gail Izaguirre- Laszlo
• Danielle Marchant- 222 Hyde

These guys will be the barbacks: Dominic Venegas (formerly of Range, Rye, Gitane, etc.), Jon Santer (Prizefighter), Neyah White (former NOPA now Yamazaki brand ambassador), Kevin Diedrich (Jasper’s Corner Tap), Danny Ronen (omnipresent), Marcovaldo Dionysos (Smuggler’s Cove), Marc Goldfine (83 Proof), Trevor Easter (Heaven’s Dog), Tony Devencenzi (Bourbon & Branch), and Adrian Mc Carron (Rye on the Road).

Below are the full details.  FROM THEIR WEBSITE—

This delicate oriental fruit is native of China. It spread to Japan very long ago and later was introduced to California during the middle of nineteenth century.  The health benefits of this bright orange colored fruit are highly related to their rich contents of fibers,  vitamins A and C while also helping to lower blood pressure. But enough about the medical side.

The first time I tried a persimmon it was the Hachiya or Japanese variety. They are large and round, with a slightly elongated, pointed base that are better for baking. (I know this now) Unfortunately, I didn’t know that this variety of persimmon shouldn’t be eaten until it is extremely ripe. It tasted like industrial-strength cleaner, very astringent. Once ripe, they have a smooth, creamy texture and a tangy sweetness.  Since then, I’ve learned that fuyus, which are short and squat that resemble a small tomato or acorn. These are the variety to buy for eating fresh. When shopping look for fruit that is plump with smooth, glossy skin. If they are not ripe just place the fruit in a punctured brown paper bag and keep at room temperature. Store ripe fruit in the refrigerator till you use it.  

There are so many was to use either.  You can make salsa, salads, breads, cookies,  butter. I have even made margaritas with them! Wait, I try to make everything in to a margarita thou.

Here is a great main dish for right now.

Duck Jus
2 teaspoons olive oil
3 shallots, sliced
1pint Madeira
8 ounces roasted duck bones
2 quarts chicken or duck stock

Fruit Puree

¼ cup dried cherries

¼ cup dried cranberries
1 pint ruby port
¼ cup pomegranate seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon rice vinegar

Roasted Duck Breast
2 duck breasts
1 cup blanched spinach
2 1-ounce pieces foie gras, seared  (I have to add foie because our former governor signed a bill to out law it very soon)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil

Duck Jus

Heat olive oil in a large sauce pan and sauté the sliced shallots. After shallots have begun to brown, deglaze the pan with the Madeira and cook until reduced by half, scraping the sides with a wooden spoon. Add the duck bones and the stock and reduce the entire mixture until 1 pint of liquid remains. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve to clarify. Set aside.

Stone Fruit Puree
In a sauce pan on medium heat, add the cherries, cranberries and port. Cook until the port evaporates. Add the pomegranate seeds, salt and pepper. Then blend in a blender until smooth. Add the rice vinegar and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside keeping warm.

Roasted Duck Breast
Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Spread the layer of caul fat on a clean surface. Next lay down the duck breasts, spinach, foie gras between them. Roll up the caul fat to form a tight log encasing the breast. Season the roll generously with salt and pepper. Sauté the duck in a small pan over medium heat, turning to brown. Finish cooking the duck in the oven for approximately six minutes. Remove the duck from the oven and allow to rest for four minutes; then slice to plate.

To Assemble and Serve 
Combine the butter and oil in a sauté pan over medium heat until the butter begins to brown add the persimmon, chestnuts and brussel sprout leaves. Cook for 1 minute, seasoning with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and finish with the herbs. Serve the brussel sprout mixture in the center of the warm plate and top with slices of duck breast, jus and a pool of stone fruit puree around the plate.

It took some dedicated research, but it is indeed possible to get tired of Margaritas. Mexico’s signature cocktail – white or silver tequila, a splash of orange-flavoured triple sec, fresh lime and lots of ice served in a glass rimmed with salt – is a simple and refreshing drink. The problem is, far too many bartenders use pre-mixed lime juice.

At dinner three nights ago our server at the great restaurant Sufi (another story) here in Mexico said he had a special Margarita I needed to try. “Tamarind”

I’m used to seeing tamarind on South Asian and Thai menus, but the sour and slightly salty brick red-coloured fruit surrounding large seeds is also very popular in Latin America, especially here Mexico. Instead of using lime, the Tamarind Margarita gets its acidic kick from the tamarind, which mellows nicely with a hefty shot of cointreau.

The tequila seems subtler in this cocktail than the traditional Margarita, but it makes its presence known quickly.

I grew quite fond of this elegant drink over the past 48 hours (don’t ask) here in Mexico and there was no way I plan to pack it away with my flip-flops when I get back home in San Franciso.

Tamarind is easy to find in most big cities. You can find it in a mexican or most ethic food markets. A 250-gram jar or bar of tamarind paste costs about $2.50. The Mexican bartender used tamarind juice, so I did some experimenting to replicate the taste for today’s recipe.

•  1 tablespoon tamarind juice  or use 1 tbsp pulp and 3 tbsp water
• 1 cup Herradura Silver tequila or your favorite
• ice cubes
• 1/4 cup Cointreau
• 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
• 1 tbsp of Tajin (mexican spice salt)
• 2 tbsp fresh lime juice
• 4 lime wedges

Thanksgiving is just about here, if you want to bring a bit of Meritage to your family feast this holiday, I am sharing our stuffing recipe.  The key to great stuffing is to use the bread as a sponge to soak up as much flavorful liquid as possible. At the same time, you don’t want it to be spongy.  The final pudding should have a moist, tender, custard-like texture. It should be firm enough to cut with a knife, but soft and tender enough to eat with a spoon with a bit of space leftover to soak up some gravy.

Chantrelle Mushroom & Roasted Chestnut Stuffing

2 cups chanterelle mushrooms

1 cup roasted & peeled chestnuts

1 onion, diced

6 ounces chicken apple sausage, casing removed

1 loaf broiche or 7 croissants, dice up

2 stalk celery, diced

2 clove garlic, minced

4 tablespoons butter

1 cup chicken stock

3 eggs, whole

1 pint cream

1 tsp sage, chopped

1 tsp thyme, chopped

to taste kosher salt & black pepper

Melt butter in large saucepan.  Add mushrooms, celery, onion & garlic.  Slowly saute until vegetables become translucent.  Season with salt & pepper.  Dice chestnuts & add to vegetables.  Add sausage & allow to cool for 8 – 10 minutes over low heat. Add chicken stock, bring to a boil and remove from the heat.  Allow to cool.

When cool, mix eggs, cream & herbs in a bowl.  Add broken-up bread to the vegetable sausage mix, fold in cream & mix well.  Place in a buttered casserole. Bake at 350F for one hour.

All those butternuts, acorns and hubbards in the produce aisle are meant for more than just soup or pie filling.

When it comes to the colorful, hard-skinned squashes that make their appearance in October/November, I like them all: pumpkin, butternut, acorn, delicata and a dozen less-common varieties that flourish locally, such as turban and buttercup. Compared to summer varieties such as patty pan and zucchini, which have thin, edible skins and delicate flesh, the tough-skinned exterior of winter squash isn’t ideal for eating—but its sweet, hearty interior is.

I have used winter squash in all kinds of recipes from risotto, salads and even panna cotta.  For some reason people think they’re restricted to pies and soup, but you can do anything with them.

For this season’s harvest, I am using them in a baked hubbard, thyme and apple tart. We have couple great salads on our menus like acorn squash, pears, potatoes & goat cheese or delicata squash, wild arugula, caramelized pearl onions, pancetta, pomegranate vinaigrette & point reyes blue.

Don’t forget that with smaller squash, you can just peel it, cut it into cubes, sauté it in butter with a little salt, sage and honey.

Here is a great recipe you can try:

Kabocha Squash Ravioli with Duck Confit, Chestnut Honey and Sage

Serves 6

1 Kabocha squash, seeds removed, roasted

2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

¼ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Salt and pepper, to taste

2 8-inch by 3-foot sheets fresh pasta dough

¼ cup chestnut honey

4 Tablespoons butter

8 leaves sage

2 shallots, cut into thin rounds

1 tbsp flat leaf parsley, chopped

2 Tablespoons Parmigiano Reggiano

Freshly cracked black pepper

Combine roasted squash with olive oil, cheese, nutmeg and season to taste. Cut pasta into squares and make ravioli using about 1 Tablespoon of filling per piece. Reserve till ready to cook.

Duck Confit:

4 duck legs, cleaned, skin-on

4 cups rendered duck fat

3 garlic cloves, whole

2 stalks celery, sliced

1 carrot, sliced

1 onion, sliced

2 bay leaves

3 fresh thyme sprigs

3 Tablespoons Kosher salt

In a deep pot, combine the duck legs, duck fat, whole garlic, celery, carrots, onion, herbs and salt. Cover the pot with foil and place in a 350°F oven for 2 ½ hours or until the meat begins to fall off the bone. Take the duck legs out of the fat, place them on a baking sheet and separate the meat from the bones, set aside.

Method:

Poach ravioli in salted, boiling water until cooked, then drain. Heat the chestnut honey in a sauté pan until it darkens slightly then add the butter, shallots and sage leaves. Add the confit, poached ravioli, parsley and gently toss to coat. Serve with cheese grated on top and fresh cracked black pepper.  

In eight months the sale of foie gras will be banned in California. Thanks to legislation that was signed into effect by then governor Arnold Schwarzenegger (he was a crappy actor too) in 2004, but included a July 2012 deadline to give foie gras producers time to come up with more sustainable methods. But with no alternatives insight July 2012 is a date fast approaching for local chefs, such as myself, who serve the popular delicacy. It is a delicacy in French cuisine. Foie gras flavor is rich, buttery and delicate. Foie gras is sold whole or is prepared chiiled in a mousse or pâté, also seared (my favorite) as well as often is served as an accompaniment to another food item such as steak.

First off, I must say there is a lot of misinformation out there. These animals are not mistreated. The last thing you would want to do is mistreat an animal which you’re using to produce a luxury ingredient such as foie gras. . We don’t raise them to become pets. These ducks are rasied to be eaten. What is next? Beef? Chicken? I want people to have the freedom to eat what they want! Do I live in the United States of America?

Killing an animal for consumption isn’t inherently cruel and that is where my culinary friends and foodies alike and many in the anti-foie crowd will have to agree to disagree.

Check out my man Tony Bourdain on his show No Reservations: Foie Gras Not Cruel, as he takes you on a tour of my old friend Michael Ginor’s (owner of Hudson Valley Foie Gras) place in upstate new york.

http://www.youtube.com/watchv=ABeWlY0KFv8

This is not the first time a community has tried to ban foie gras in the U.S. It was outlawed in Chicago in 2006 producing backlash from restaurants that ended up serving foie gras secretly. The ban lasted almost two years.

But the California law was approved overwhelmingly and support for it appears as strong as ever.  I’m told that violators of the law, when it goes into affect will face fines of up to $1,000 a day. After speaking to fellow chef friends from L.A to Napa, chefs are already thinking of ways to work around this new prohibition.

Personally, send the foie gras police my way!  My customers love ordering it on my menu and I have no intention of taking it off.

Pry the foie from my cold dead head!

One thing about the end of summer that I love: fresh figs, so delicate and about to burst open with sticky, sweet juices. Long revered in art and history, it is thought that it was a fig that was the forbidden fruit, not the apple. Native to southwestern Asia and the Mediterranean region, figs have been a part of the diets of many cultures throughout time. It was one of the first plants cultivated by humans – going back 9500 years.

When ripe, a fresh fig is sweet like honey, yet rich tasting at the same time. I love to add them to a salad of endive, watercress, goat cheese and balsamic vinaigrette. Simply split them into quarters and drizzled with honey and fresh mint. Or, top a crostini with some fresh ricotta, a sliced fig, a hint of lemon zest. Pop that in the oven and garnish with a drizzle of honey and a dusting of fresh black pepper.

They’re perfect wrapped in prosciutto or stuffed with point reyes blue cheese. They make a nice addition to pizza and taste great cooked down as a compote, which is a nice topper for pork or even waffles.

• 8 firm-ripe fresh California figs, trimmed and cut in half lengthwise
• 3 tablespoons light brown sugar
• 1 pint vanilla ice cream
• 1 tablespoon aged Balsamic Vinegar (20 years)

Preheat broiler. Arrange figs, cut sides up, in large shallow nonreactive baking pan. Sprinkle evenly with sugar and broil 2 to 3 inches from heat until sugar is melted and begins to turn deep golden color, 3 to 5 minutes.

Serve immediately, spooning 4 fig halves over 1/4 cup of ice cream for each serving. Drizzle with vinegar.

Serves: 4 (4 fig halves, 1/2 cup ice cream each)

I only know what I know and feel how I feel. I have been it the business for 22 years now; it’s been a great run for me. Living the “Chefs Life” has been everything and then some. When I started Culinary school it wasn’t so cool and trendy to be a Chef, I cooked because I loved to cook. (Thanks Dad) Kitchens were my sanctuary from life; it was the place that I felt the most comfortable. Despite the sometimes-extreme conditions, long hours and pay, I knew it was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life. 12-14 hour days would and do still fly by at the speed of light, a sure sign that I am doing what I should be doing.

I am still as much in love with the industry as the first day that I walked into a kitchen. I really don’t think it could have turned out any better than this. I have enjoyed the food, my friends, and travel and, of course, STILL being able to make people happy through my cooking. That being said I will say that it’s very disturbing to me that many cooks don’t feel the way I feel. As it sit and talk over a late nite beverage with some of my fellow good chef friends, we discuss why they feel no joy coming into work and have never have come to terms with their career choice; resentment runs deep about working off-hours for mediocre wages and prime time spent away from family. Few are willing to pay the price and make the sacrifices necessary to climb the culinary ladder. Their future in the industry is questionable. As much as they may say that they love kitchen work, the truth is, it doesn’t come naturally to them.

If you want to live the “Chefs Life”, do what you do best. It doesn’t matter what type of kitchen you work in, four stars or fast food, it’s all about the passion and commitment to excellence that you put into it. There is a market for all types of food and chefs. You have to pick your venue and make it the best it can be. If you’re any good, money and prestige will follow. If it doesn’t and you are doing it for the right reason, who cares?

Most of my days are filled with a series of emotional highs and lows. One moment I can experience the exhilaration associated with executing near perfection, only to be deflated moments later when something does not reach my standards. You don’t have to be a Four Star Chef at a high-end restaurant to feel this way. Passion and pride are not exclusive to any single segment of the industry, ethnicity, gender or age; you either feel this way or you don’t.

I beat myself up pretty good if things don’t work out as planned. Sleepless nights followed by stress filled days are occurrences. Those days are lost forever! What a waste of my most precious resource, time. I know that during these challenging times, many of my fellows Chefs are feeling the same strain. We are all on edge. Uncertain of what tomorrow will bring and how our daily performance will influence our futures.

A little extra planning, a few more hours committed to the job, and a backup plan for most everything will allow you to better enjoy your down time. You may actually have a little less down time, but it will be higher quality down time and definitely worth considering.

Remember that even the worst day will come to an end, try to brush yourself off, learn from it and set yourself up for future success!!

Corn is in and with the hot weather, there’s no better way to cook corn than to grill it. Friends have asked me what’s the best way to do it? There are two basic ways, depending on what you’re after. Corn today is so sweet and tender, it only needs to be heated through, so your decision is really up to you.   The two methods I like, are direct heat, which will brown the corn giving it a grilled flavor, or low temperature, steamed within its wet husk.

I like both and the corn to the right, which we ate during a recent family dinner. I love the appearance because it tells you how it was cooked.  If I wanted the smokey steamy effect, which gives you a cleaner corn flavor, pull the husk back, remove as much silk as possible by rubbing it with a kitchen towel, then fold the husk back up and soak the corn in cold water for 10 minutes.  Then grill over direct heat until heated through, ten minutes, with a nice hot flame.

Another way I love to cook corn is without it’s husk. This can give a more caramelized flavor, because the corn will be in closer contact to the heat.
Peel off, remove and discard the outer husks. Using a damp paper towel or vegetable scrubber, remove the corn silks that cover the ear. Rinse each ear in water to remove any remaining silk or debris.

Place each cob on a square piece of foil large enough to wrap and cover the ear. Either spoon or brush on the unsalted butter, generously coating each ear. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Tightly wrap with foil, twisting the ends to seal it.

Either way you prepare the corn, place them on the grill and rotate every 3-4 minutes for 13-15 minutes total. If you listen carefully, the ears will start to sizzle towards the end. If you aren’t sure whether they are done or not, partially peel one ear. Some of the kernels should be browned and caramelized.

Simply & Easy!